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Cars, Trains & Ducks:
An Excursion to the Wisconsin Dells area
More Sites in Wisconsin
Bayside Beaver Dam Dousman Lake Delavan Lake Delton Madison Milwaukee Racine Spring Green Two Rivers
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One of the very last Frank Lloyd
Wright-designed structures ever to be built, the Seth Peterson cottage was
another example of Wright's Usonian homes, commissioned in 1958 by Seth
Peterson while Wright was finishing work on the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
in New York -- a project that occupied some sixteen years of Wright's life.
Mr. Peterson however, never spent a night in the cottage as he presumably
committed suicide before the place was finished. Whether or not Wright
himself ever visited the cottage is questionable; on April 9th, 1959 at the
age of 91, Frank Lloyd Wright passed away. For the next twenty-some years,
the cottage was left to the ravages of Mother Nature; time, neglect and the
elements nearly destroyed it. But, as luck would have it, a woman by the
name of Audrey Laatsch was canoeing on Mirror Lake one day when she somehow
spotted the ruins of the cottage up on the hill. Research indicated that the
crumbled cottage was indeed a Frank Lloyd Wright design.
Rehabilitation of the Peterson cottage was not easy, nor was
it cheap. But those volunteers dedicated to the preservation of Frank Lloyd
Wright-designed structures are resolute and determined; many of those who
were responsible for the restoration of the Peterson cottage were local
residents, and heading the group was none other than Laatsch herself. Their
efforts, starting with the founding of the Seth Peterson Cottage Conservancy
(a non-profit organization) in 1989 resulted in a $300,000 project that took
three years to complete and included elements (such as a radiantly heated
floor) from Wright's original design that apparently had never been built.
The work was finished and the cottage became available for guest lodging in
June of 1992, the 125th anniversary of Wright's birth.
Important to note is that the Seth Peterson cottage is
actually a rehabilitation ("repair" - perhaps with different materials) and
not a restoration ("return to original condition") -- the difference being
that although the design is the original, some aspects, such as the
thermal-pane windows created especially for the cottage by Pella, are not.
Personally, I think it is splitting hairs, but I wouldn't want to broach
that subject with a Wright aficionado...
The cottage is really only two rooms (not counting the
bathroom) but actually seems quite large; the locally-obtained red sandstone
in the walls and on the floor, along with ambient and electric lighting
create a comfortable and welcoming warmth. A small, open kitchen is just to
the right upon entering and is equipped with a sink, an electric stove and
refrigerator. Straight ahead is the main room: a gorgeous view into the oak
woods is available out the south-facing, floor-to-ceiling windows and a
monstrous fireplace can provide a roaring fire when the mood or the weather
demands. A porch on the west side of the cottage provides a perfect place to
enjoy a view of the sun as it sets over Mirror Lake. The cottage is perfect
for a special getaway and it is available for overnight or for longer stays.
Best for one or two guests, the cottage will accommodate up to four guests;
it can fairly comfortably hold twenty guests (There were about twenty-five
of us in the cottage for the Fall Color Boat Tour reception) for special
events or perhaps a dozen for special meetings.
Perhaps one of my favorite parts of our tour was the
actual "Fall Color Boat Tour" portion of the day. Three pontoon boats
awaited us at the small dock at the end of the path leading down the hill
from the cottage. We had the good fortune to have drawn Waldo Peterson (no
relation to Seth Peterson) as our guide. Easing back from the dock and
heading down the narrow portion of the lake toward the State Park boat
launch, Waldo began to describe how Mirror Lake had gotten its start -- he
had actually grown up here as a boy and had known the area when the land
around Mirror Lake was privately owned. In 1925 a concrete dam replaced a
wooden one constructed in the mid 19th century, the purpose of which was to
power a watermill to grind local grain into flour. He also told us about the
creation of the State Park in 1962, pointed out special places of interest
-- like the cabin where many of the scenes from
Public Enemies were filmed, Ishnala Supper Club and the "Devil's Post Office" -- and reminisced about
some of the colorful history of the lake and its residents. Mostly he just
smiled as he piloted us along the stretches of the 137-acre lake that he
loved. The fall colors from the maples were just beginning to show
themselves and the serenity was all-encompassing as the sun was setting on
the placid waters of Mirror Lake; it was easy to understand how the lake got
its name.
The chill from the boat ride was quickly replaced by the
warmth from a blazing fire that awaited us back at the cottage, along with
hot cider, sandwiches, and conversation. The tour had come to an end, but we
had one final place to check out before our day could be over. We stopped
briefly at the
Hilton Garden Inn for a change of clothes and
headed to the Del Bar Restaurant... conveniently right next door. Designed
by a protégé of Frank Lloyd Wright, it was a place at which we had always
wanted to stop. The Master Architect's influence is definitely visible -- in
the lines of the structure, in the design if the doors and in the interior
as well. It was a fitting way to end the day, just sipping a cocktail and
munching on some delicious smoked salmon... and trying to decide when the
best time would be to plan a trip to stay at "The Seth" as Waldo had
referred to the Peterson cottage. And planning is certainly necessary; the
place is booked solid until November of 2010... Even if you don't have a
special event to celebrate, it's never too early to start planning a
reservation at one of the very few Wright buildings in which you can
actually stay -- and while you're there, take as many pictures as you like. If simply a tour of
the cottage is more to your liking, a monthly open house and guided tour is
available or, take the Fall Color Boat Tour & Reception, as we did.
Photos and text property of Northern Sky Designs, LLC
©2009
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The Del-Bar Restaurant
"The Del-Bar has undergone four major
renovations and expansions over the years, all at the hands of
architect James Dresser – a personal friend and protégé of the late
Frank Lloyd Wright."
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